Trailering

I picked up my trailer from Viper on Friday. Looks pretty good except for the caulking around the roof vent. Looks like they hoisted a 4 year old up there to seal it. I'll start getting my car position and tie down arrangement going this w/e. I've heard conflicting opinions on whether crossing the straps is necessary so if you feel strongly one way or the other, please chime it, I want to have two hooked fixed length straps made that can be quickly attached to the front and then do all the adjustment and tightening from the rear ratchet straps.
 
I cross mine in the rear - probably out of habit.

If the crossed straps come into play, you probably have bigger problems. But it is still the right thing to do.

Paul
 
Kent: as a "rookie trailer" guy....just marked the car inside trailer, at front secured wheel chocks to floor (L and R)....placed a piece of marking tape in center of the "V" nose as a gauge to watch and align as I drive in. Your question? I just place front straps in D rings...then at back ( I do not criss cross)...I just place straps into car tie downs and make tight....all done...TAKE IT OUT OF GEAR.....pretty simple process. Beware of your height pulling in...I am very low so I use ramps...up and in = done. I also place a couple 2x4 boards to fill gap between trailer and lowered door. WELCOME TO THE TRAILER WORLD.....boom!
 
I cross mine in the rear - probably out of habit.

If the crossed straps come into play, you probably have bigger problems. But it is still the right thing to do.

Paul

I too cross my rear straps but agree with Paul...if crossed straps come into play, you have bigger problems to deal with! :D
 
I cross my straps on this Serpent Express, mainly due to the slippery floor. I never did in my enclosed trailer, but I did have the floor painted with a non skid type paint. Read this from Hagerty, it says you can or can't, sounds like personal preference. I think the idea is to keep the rear of the car from sliding around, but, the front would be as important. The main thing is to use the proper rated straps for CARS, not motorcycles. Breaking strength is different than Tensile strength and so on....do some homework and use RATCHETING straps, not pull tight straps.

As Ian suggested, front wheel chocks are helpful, however, the drawback is being able to properly tighten the front straps. I have mine marked on the trailer, I put the wheel chocks down for loading, then tie down. Once all the straps are tight, I put the front chocks back down. Your idea/thought of using fixed straps has some real merit and something I may try.

When loading your car, either have the trailer connected to the tow vehicle OR have jack stands/adjustable jacks on the rear of the trailer and chock the tires, front/rear. As also mentioned, make sure you have enough clearance for the front of the car to not only clear the rear gate, but clear the break over point where the gate meets the trailer (namely oil pans). A few ways you can adjust for this, you can jack up the front of the trailer lessening the angle of the gate to the ground. Park on a hill with the trailer/tow vehicle pointing up the hill, or buy the SpeedRamps. Up to you.

https://www.hagerty.com/assets/PDF/TraileringPamphlet.pdf
 
Tim great info on basic trailering, can not hurt to re-read all this info...just did...important not to cut any corners...good info!
 
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