Trailer Brakes

[Tim M]

Soooo, I learned a couple of valuable lessons today. I started out this afternoon to simply adjust the drum brakes on my trailer. The reason is I've had to adjust my brake controller gain from 5.5 to 9 with the car in the trailer. I had to adjust the wheel for the brake shoes a couple of rounds on both axles and all four brakes. I noticed on the passenger rear a wire hanging, it was one of the electric solenoid wires that actuate the brake I re-crimped it back on, then began checking the others....ALL BUT ONE was cut/broken. It appears that the wire corroded to a point that it broke at the crimp connector. I sprayed them with seals all after crimping to protect them a little better. I think I will go back later when I have more time and put some heat shrink over all the connectors and make sure this doesn't happen again. I've been braking with the driver's rear ONLY for some time now. Also found one of the dust covers on the bearing torn allowing dirt/dust in. Do I completely clean this bearing of all grease and re-pack or just buy a new cover and repack it?

Moral of the story - these things require maintenance too.

I need to replace the shoes after San Marcos, any idea as to what kind where to get?

 

[mmarshall]

There are 2 types of crimp connectors. Those that have failed and those that will fail within the next year or so. They are garbage and definately have no place in a highly corrosive environment. Go buy a solder gun and some heat shrink and do them right. Next time you have an electrical problem just go look for a crimp connector and you will likely have found the problem.

 

[PaulProe]

Solder?

Mike
It is interesting, they recommend AGAINST soldering connectors used in a vibration environment. Seems the solid connection the solder makes causes the wire to fatigue at the point it becomes flexible again.

I'm with you, I tend to solder mine, but it is against the advice of the experts. I think the only solution is to use the proper style crimp and tools, and when exposed to the elements, use a WeatherTite type connector. The proper crimping tool folds the edges of the fitting over onto the wire and then there is another crimp onto the insulation. Not easy to do but makes a big difference.

Paul

 

[Richgrsc]

I crimp all my connections, with only BARE connectors. Then heat shrink the connection. If it is exposed to the elements, then it gets double heat shrink tubing, one short piece, then covered by a long piece. The heat shrink tubing helps support the connection and prevent vibration stress.

 

[mmarshall]

Paul I would agree if the area of the connection will be bent alot. But then again if there is alot of movement the wire will wiggle it's way out of the crimp also.

In my former career I wired airplanes for a living and we always soldered if possible. Much of what we did was to troubleshoot electrical problems and often traced the problem down to a poorly done connector. The only time a solder joint was a problem it was due to a cold solder. I have seen the wire break at the end of the tinned wire, but that just means it was not properly supported.

I have also used Rich's idea of double heatshrink to support the connection.