• For all members (past, current, and new)

    THANK YOU ALL FOR HELPING TO GET THIS CLUB OFF THE STARTING LINE !!!

    To begin your membership with Gateway Cobra Club please submit your vital information to our club registrar/Treasurer: Paul Proefrock

    Please include your:

    Name, address, phone numbers (work, home, cell) e-mail, etc. Also, tell us about your Cobra (make, model, year, colors, engine, options, stage of build, etc.), where you bought it, any other particulars. Also include other vehicles, birthdays, your occupation & company, and any other details about you and you significant others. BTW - this info will not be posted on-line (EVER). It's just for us - to make the club better. We will eventually create a database for internal club use only.

    We will begin collecting dues soon to enable the activities that we have planned for the year - so stay tuned for that.

    FINALLY - get involved. Attend the meetings, schedule some cruises, and have some fun. We want to make this club fun (for the whole family). We're small (for now) but we're going to make a big noise here in St. Louis. In the end - this club will only be as good as our members participation.

    Thanks for joining us - see you in the fast lane!

New member - Casey Skelton

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Welcome Casey Skelton to our group, you'll see the user name "Caskel"

His initial information indicates a Factory Five but no other details.

Casey, tell us more, inquiring minds want to know :)
 
Hi Everyone.
The short version: Took advantage of the new year sale at FFR and ordered up a base kit that I have wanted for years. Expected to wait a few months for the production run. Instead, got a completion date of 2/1/20.

The long version: I have wanted one of these cars for at least a decade. Phase 1 of the plan: When it came time to purchase a third vehicle for the two older kids to drive to school for marching band, volleyball, robotics, etc., my wife said she wanted to get something older, didn't care about mileage, something inexpensive. Hmmn, lightbulb. I found a 1997 Mustang GT, very high mileage but also unmodified, (still had the factory airbox.) Only took out collision insurance, told the kids if they wrecked it, they were back on the bus. Did all the basic maintenance, plugs, wires, hoses, accessory belt. Major repairs: replaced the clutch myself, differential bearings (had the shop install 3:55 while the case was open.) 5 years later, those two kids are off to college, Mustang not getting used much, New Year sale at FFR....We are on to Phase 2.

I have been lurking on this forum a bit for tips, tricks and such. I have a plan and a picture in my mind of the completed car. Right now I have nothing but excitement, I'll need to remind myself often during the build, patience is top priority.

Might as well ask my first question. Can anyone recommend a reliable speed shop to rebuild the 4.6? That could be the biggest hurdle of the project.

Thanks for the welcome, looking forward to a great summer,
Casey
 
Sounds like a good plan Casey. I'm know of a few places that could rebuild a 4.6, but I didn't have them do work for me personally.
 
Welcome Casey! Look forward to hearing your build plans and seeing your progress.

Let us know about delivery day, we like to see all the new stuff and talk you into spending more money (and we're pretty good at it!)
If the weather is descent, we'd enjoy breaking out the roadsters.
 
Hey Casey. I have a bunch of misc new parts here. Maybe it’s worth a look for your build ?
 
Quick note Casey. I also have a new heater I’m not planning on using. That I might think about selling.
 
Casey, Where do you live? I've had good results from Morley Performance in Fenton for my machine shop jobs. Along with your membership, you get access to the club equipment. Let us know if you need help pulling the engine. I currently am using the engine stand, but we have a cherry picker and other tools as well. As Mark and other have pointed out, we have a wealth of knowledge about these cars. We can give you as much or little help as you want. You are correct about the patience part of this. I don't have much, but this has taught me to have a little more.
 
Hi Tbull, I live around 270 / Page. Distance to an engine shop is not an issue, I can haul the block just about anywhere. Reputation and quality work are much more important than distance and I will definitely be shouting out for the cherry picker and engine stand when the time comes. Thanks.

As to Morley, I checked out their website, they are definitely worth a visit. Probably going to visit AMT and another shop up in Bethalto as well. Other suggestions welcome as well.
Casey
 
Caskel said:
Hi Tbull, I live around 270 / Page. Distance to an engine shop is not an issue, I can haul the block just about anywhere. Reputation and quality work are much more important than distance and I will definitely be shouting out for the cherry picker and engine stand when the time comes. Thanks.

As to Morley, I checked out their website, they are definitely worth a visit. Probably going to visit AMT and another shop up in Bethalto as well. Other suggestions welcome as well.
Casey
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Casey,

Be aware that not many engine shop are skilled in machining Ford Modular engines.They require many specialized tools and are much more critical on cam bore tolerances and oil passages. Don't let a shop try to tell you differently. These are not as forgiving as a pushrod Ford.

Call Bob Monks at STL Mustangs for a referral to a competent shop.
He does no machine work but sends his work to those who are well versed in building modulars.
Be advised.....The best modular builders are not local. Those that have tried... have horror stores to tell.
You might be best served to buy a longblock from an out of state reputable builder.

Also...if you need any new or used parts for your Cobra Engine...I have a number of 97-98 Cobra 4.6 spares that I won't be using since switching to a Coyote engine. New Gasket sets...oil pans...valves, new heads, ARP hardware, Pistons, Rings, etc.
I had intended to sell everything but have not gotten to do it yet.

Kerry
 
Thanks for the info Kerry. Yep, a reman unit could definitely save time and effort. The part I didn't mention is that several months back, I came across an Aluminum block 4.6 at a junkyard for cheap. This is the engine I'd like to get rebuilt. I think I found my guy, but still checking around. Also thanks for all the other parts offers. Seems like quite a few of you members have parts bins that need scrounging through.

As to DELIVERY DAY!!! Spoke with Stewart Trans earlier this week. I am tentatively scheduled for delivery sometime between Thurs-Sat so... "Happy Valentines Honey!"

I suppose my next move on this forum is to start a build thread and figure out how to post pictures! Stay tuned.

Casey
 
Caskel said:
Thanks for the info Kerry. Yep, a reman unit could definitely save time and effort. The part I didn't mention is that several months back, I came across an Aluminum block 4.6 at a junkyard for cheap. This is the engine I'd like to get rebuilt. I think I found my guy, but still checking around. Also thanks for all the other parts offers. Seems like quite a few of you members have parts bins that need scrounging through.

As to DELIVERY DAY!!! Spoke with Stewart Trans earlier this week. I am tentatively scheduled for delivery sometime between Thurs-Sat so... "Happy Valentines Honey!"

I suppose my next move on this forum is to start a build thread and figure out how to post pictures! Stay tuned.

Casey
Click to expand...

Casey...the most desirable aluminum 4.6 DOHC blocks were made in Italy by Teksid. The same foundry that makes Ferrari engine blocks. They were found in Lincoln Mark 8 cars beginning in 1993 through 1998. Be certain that is what you have. Because there were also 4.6 aluminum blocks made for the FWD Continental which have a totally different bellhousing pattern and are worthless for your RWD purpose. The other Aluminum RWD blocks were made by Ford at the Windsor Plant and are marked "WAP". They have those letters cast into the side of the block. They were found in mid 2000 Mustangs and can be used...but the block hardware is not interchangeable and they are not considered to be as strong as the Teksid block. The Teksid is capable of 2000 hp with minimal modifications.

You would be well served to use the block you have as a core in exchange for a built long block. Also...if you have a choice...use the "C" Heads found on 1999 and newer Mustangs and Continentals. They are a far superior head for the street and can use more desirable Mach 1 or Cobra R intake manifolds. The earlier "B" heads have dual ports that required IMC valves to operate and were both more complex and had port sizes too large for good street performance and driveability. The early B heads are notorious for carbon build up in the secondary intake ports due to zero to low port velocity during normal street driving. The more desirable later "C" heads will fit any of the 4.6 Aluminum blocks. Be aware also that the Continental FWD blocks came with the desirable "C" heads...so even if you run across a Continental 4.6 DOHC the heads and cams are still usable even though the block is not. The Continental C head Intake is usable but not desirable unless mated with an automatic transmission.

If you need "C" heads or intakes...I have both...including a new set of C heads.
I also have two complete Continental engines with C heads if needed....with lots of small parts.

As far as crankshafts...the 96-98 Mustang Cobra cranks and later 2003-2004 Mustang Mach 1 manual trans cranks were forged steel and have an eight bolt flywheel pattern. The Mark 8 cranks and Mach 1 Automatic cranks were nodular Iron and have a six bolt flywheel pattern. Either...is perfectly adequate for the street. Just be aware that for a manual transmission...most 4.6 manual flywheels will require an eight bolt crank flange.

Finally...do not let a builder talk you into a set of aftermarket cams for the 4.6 DOHC. They are totally unnecessary for any naturally aspirated street engine.
The best cam combination is to use the OEM intake cams from a 93-98 Mark 8 or 96-98 Mustang Cobra and the stock exhaust cams found on the C head engines from 99 to 2004. However the stock 93-98 exhaust cams will also work well.
There is much information available on this cam setup and the proper degree settings for best street performance and I would share any of the info with you that I have accumulated over the last 20 years.
Keep in mind that Ford used these same stock factory cams to go 182 MPH with a 3700 lb full bodied Mark 8 Lincoln and stock 4.6 DOHC engine. They are plenty potent enough for a 2300 lb street Cobra.
 
Thanks again for the info Kerry. I did do some research before I bought some random junkyard engine hoping it would fit. Fiat block, check. RWD Lincoln Mark VIII, check. I don't plan on using FoMoCo heads or cams, but thanks for the offer.

I am not aware of any engine builder that is offering short / long block aluminum 4.6's, but I can call around some more.

Casey
 
Caskel said:
Thanks again for the info Kerry. I did do some research before I bought some random junkyard engine hoping it would fit. Fiat block, check. RWD Lincoln Mark VIII, check. I don't plan on using FoMoCo heads or cams, but thanks for the offer.

I am not aware of any engine builder that is offering short / long block aluminum 4.6's, but I can call around some more.

Casey
Click to expand...

What heads and cams are you planning to use?
 
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