Failure Analysis
Failure Analysis - maybe this will help another:
Seems when the car was built, a Nylok style nut was used for the clutch adjuster and no return spring. Maybe a workable idea, but after 6,000 miles, the nylon was gone and the nut could easily be turned on the linkage shaft.Without a return spring, as the adjustment vibrated, the clutch slave took up the difference, keeping the car working - until it reached the point the slave cylinder seal emerged from the cylinder and immediate release. When it snapped back, it appears to have pinch the seal. At that point, the cylinder was done.
The return spring would have shown a problem with the linkage and an earlier warning of something being wrong. A double nut would have assured the adjustment didn't change on its own.
After replacing the cylinder, we put a double nut on the adjustment rod and then tightened it down. Should be good to go. Still need a return spring. I have one you can have, we'll put it on another day.

$11 part - $300 ride home with the tow truck - If you have AAA, make sure you're on the Gold plan or higher - the basic plan only covers 30 miles.
Ian, the next time you're car is in the shop and up on a lift, have them recheck that the locknut is still tight. Not something you need to make an appointment for but something to check the next time it is in the air. I also don't recall a return spring on the linkage - we should add that to keep it from happening again.
We need to let Mark Earls to give us a class on frame polishing/detailing. Half of the road grime from Ian's frame is now on my hands and arms. Extended time in the shower and it still is only half off.

This stuff is tenacious. Brake dust maybe? Whatever it is, it doesn't come off easily. Anyone have any ideas on how to remove road grime?