Enclosed Trailers?

Kerry & Kathy

Kerry & Kathy

Member #007
Paid Member
Location
Fredericktown, Farmington and Viburnum MO
First Name
Kerry
Last Name
Owen
I am considering buying an enclosed trailer to use to transport large household items from our Farmington house to the farm and to transport guns and ammo to gun shows.
When we permanently move to the farm it needs to be large enough that we can haul personal items in plastic totes in as few a number of trips as possible.

Obviously, I don't yet have need of one to haul a Cobra...but am curious as to the smallest size of enclosed trailer that "could" haul a Cobra.
I can measure my car dimensions but would appreciate any input from our more experienced members that might allow a purchase to potentially also do double duty in the future hauling our car.

At this point, I am looking for a bumper mount, double axle with brakes, ramp, a side door, and an angled front end.
I would like one tall enough that I could stand up inside. (6'4")
It would be pulled with our 3/4 T Suburban.
I am considering both aluminum and steel frames.
Initially, it would be used for hauling cargo.
Much later it can be tailored with tie-down anchors and interior lights to haul the Cobra.

Suggestions..??

Thanks.
 
The hips of the 427 body dictate the trailer has to be 8' wide. On a 7', the cables for the door won't let the car on the ramp, so 8' it has to be.

As far as length, you might be able to use a 14' V-nose but it would really be difficult to strap the vehicle in - I would caution on this, if you think it might be the one, make sure to try a car in it before committing.

I run a 16' V-Nose with plenty of room up front and no issues getting it in and strapped down. On either length, you need to spec where the front hold-downs go. The standard position will put the forward ones under the front tires and un-usable.

Paul
 
PaulProe said:
The hips of the 427 body dictate the trailer has to be 8' wide. On a 7', the cables for the door won't let the car on the ramp, so 8' it has to be.

As far as length, you might be able to use a 14' V-nose but it would really be difficult to strap the vehicle in - I would caution on this, if you think it might be the one, make sure to try a car in it before committing.

I run a 16' V-Nose with plenty of room up front and no issues getting it in and strapped down. On either length, you need to spec where the front hold-downs go. The standard position will put the forward ones under the front tires and un-usable.

Paul
Click to expand...

Thanks, Paul. That gives me a starting point.
 
I am seeing a lot of 8.5' wide trailers with the interior wheel well boxes that appear to be high enough to contact the driver's door when open
Will the driver's door clear those wheel wells when open?

Would a side door above the driver side wheel well be a good option to add to facilitate driver exit from the car after loading?

Any options for the ramp/rear door that need to be considered other than risers at the rear doors edge to allow the nose to clear the ramps?
 
My doors would clear those wheel wells, but, typically I just climbed in over the door. They do make trailers, as you mentioned, with doors that raise up for access to the car, not a bad idea. As for the rear ramp, you can get away with no additional ramps if you get the drop axles (Like Mike and Paul have). The only drawback is losing some ground clearance under the trailer. The other good thing about drop axle trailers are ease of access in to the trailer.
 
Purple Venom said:
My doors would clear those wheel wells, but, typically I just climbed in over the door. They do make trailers, as you mentioned, with doors that raise up for access to the car, not a bad idea. As for the rear ramp, you can get away with no additional ramps if you get the drop axles (Like Mike and Paul have). The only drawback is losing some ground clearance under the trailer. The other good thing about drop axle trailers are ease of access in to the trailer.
Click to expand...

The drop axles are a good suggestion... as it would also facilitate loading large shop items on and off the trailer using pallet jacks or hand trucks.

Mike / Paul: what is your actual ground clearance?
Has that been a liability?
The only issue I might have would be at the farm on uneven ground when moving items to the shop or house.

I highly doubt if I would be able to get in and out of the car with the door closed so an added door might be necessary.
 
Kerry & Kathy;48166 . . .Paul: what is your actual ground clearance? Has that been a liability? . . . [/QUOTE said:
My perimeter frame is 9-1/2" off flat ground. The two axles aren't that high but since they're in line with the wheel center, they'll climb over a substantial height and still be ok. I am guessing they are around 6-7" off the ground.

It's lower than a big flat deck trailer but I've never been anywhere it was an issue. With that said, I was climbing over a ditch at Putnam and the axle articulation cut a brake wire. That may have been a design issue though.

You're not going to get it to go where the farm trailers go, but farm trailers don't travel that well over paved roads, at least not at speed and great distances. :cool:
Click to expand...
 
PaulProe said:
My perimeter frame is 9-1/2" off flat ground. The two axles aren't that high but since they're in line with the wheel center, they'll climb over a substantial height and still be ok. I am guessing they are around 6-7" off the ground.

It's lower than a big flat deck trailer but I've never been anywhere it was an issue. With that said, I was climbing over a ditch at Putnam and the axle articulation cut a brake wire. That may have been a design issue though.

You're not going to get it to go where the farm trailers go, but farm trailers don't travel that well over paved roads, at least not at speed and great distances. :cool:
Click to expand...

9 1/2" would work fine on the gravel farm roads since I don't plan on getting into the fields with it.
I think the dropped axles would work well and be a plus for loading.

Thanks, Paul and Tim...!
 
Kerry, this old post has some good information regarding enclosed trailers.

I have a Stealth 8.5'x18' box with 2' V nose. Have been very happy with the quality of the trailer but it is more expensive than some of the others. I also added a few additional options like an extended tongue (recommend) and mag wheels. I especially liked the look of the standard screwless exterior although that may not be important to most?

http://www.stealthtrailer.com/our-story
 
mplunk said:
Kerry, this old post has some good information regarding enclosed trailers.

I have a Stealth 8.5'x18' box with 2' V nose. Have been very happy with the quality of the trailer but it is more expensive than some of the others. I also added a few additional options like an extended tongue (recommend) and mag wheels. I especially liked the look of the standard screwless exterior although that may not be important to most?

http://www.stealthtrailer.com/our-story
Click to expand...

Thanks, Mike...I had reviewed this thread and others but trailer selection is still a matter of options vs price and I am still debating between a standard 7' wide vs 8' or 8.5' with interior wheel wells, a driver side entry door, and an interior higher than the more common 6"3".

Do you find the 8.5' width an issue with visibility to the rear when towing?
Is it wide enough to require extended mirrors?

The extended tongue is a good idea that I applied to our custom built 12,000 lb 20' flat trailer for towing our heavy equipment.

How much of a premium in cost was the 8.5' width over a more common 7'...?
What is your interior height?

Thanks.
 
Kerry
WARNING !
A 427 body style cobra will not fit into a 7' wide trailer - the fender flares will not clear the door suspension cables.

A 289 style will just barely clear but has to be winched in - there is only about 2" total clearance on this narrower style body.

Height is an issue when towing - more frontal area. I have a taller trailer and pay the price with gas mileage. Rick Hubbard has the same trailer, just lower height and he gets a couple mpg's bettter.

Paul
 
PaulProe said:
Kerry
WARNING!
A 427 body style cobra will not fit into a 7' wide trailer - the fender flares will not clear the door suspension cables.

A 289 style will just barely clear but has to be winched in - there is only about 2" total clearance on this narrower style body.

Height is an issue when towing - more frontal area. I have a taller trailer and pay the price with gas mileage. Rick Hubbard has the same trailer, just lower height and he gets a couple mpg's better.

Paul
Click to expand...


My only consideration of the 7' width was based on an inference that multiple members (Ian, Kent, Dan and yourself) had and were successfully using the 7'x18' Arising model 7183TA-02031 trailer.
That inference is apparently not accurate or I misunderstood the comment made.
Is your trailer an Arising model?

The height issue and resultant lower mileage are less of a concern for me as the trailer will be primarily used for transporting household items and taller equipment for relatively shorter distances. However, I just want to ensure the dimensions will fit the F5 body later.
I may need to get further info from you on tie down locations, as it is becoming clearer that I will likely have to have another custom trailer built.

If an 8' or 8.5' x 16' trailer will work for the 427 body...I may pursue that as the floor space would be adequate for the equipment I need to move.
 
Trust me, the wider trailer will be better for all around use for towing other vehicles. I always suggest mirror extension's with any enclosed trailer.
 
Kerry, I do have an Arising trailer, but it isn't 7' wide. I'll measure it when it's light out. :)
 
Turner here, YES, the trailer is 8’ wide due to the explanation from Paul P. / Kent has same, but had the height reduced for better air resistance. The owner there at Viper Trailer is a very nice guy, old go karter and good friend of HARRIS AUTO in Wentzville, used to race together. He was very helpful and accomodating to me, as never has a trailer prior... probably just a good idea to stop in there in person...Insee you and him getting along nicely....
 
I have been looking at a source of 8.5' trailers in GA that have a number of standard features such as dropped axles, 6.5" interior height and heavy duty 5,000 lb ramp door...however, they come with a beavertail floor which is great for hauling cars but not so desirable for tall top heavy machinery.
They also offer a 7,000 lb super duty ramp door for only $275 more.

18.5 x 18.JPG

To that standard trailer I would have to add:
- the V nose ($235)
- 60" triple tube extended tongue ($175)
- 54" driver escape door ($295)
- a couple added D rings @ $17 each
- LED lights @ $40

Total of $5451.00

If I go with an 8' wide I can get a flat floor. And the driver's side "escape" door is available with either width.
Also, there are only a couple hundred dollars between the 16' and 18' trailers making the added floor space of an 18' a plus...as long as maneuverability is not reduced too much.
Note that I am currently towing a 12,000lb 20 ft open top trailer with the Suburban with no maneuverability issues...so I would expect the 18' should not be a major issue other than adding extended mirrors.

IMG_0213.jpg

But..the 8' x 18 with flat floor and escape door may prove to be the most versatile combination. Not sure...

GA is a long drive (733mi) to the Manufacturer... but it eliminates a local dealer's mark up and MO sales tax. A considerable savings even after factoring in the added $240 fuel cost.
 
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We are all using 8' trailers. Jim Dooley is the only one that has a 7', to my knowledge

7' has wheels /fenders on outside of box - 8',has wheels / wheel wells on inside of box
 
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