Thats very good point also will be needing lots of oil and oil dry and maybe spare engine you sure that tailers large enough
Enclosed Trailer
- Thread starter Tim M
- Start date
Matthew 10:16
Member # 003
Don't forget heavy duty shocks on the tow vehicle to handle all the extra weight from the fat head all BBG owners have. 
BTW Hey Steve this thread could be turning into the "let's talk about Tim thread."
BTW Hey Steve this thread could be turning into the "let's talk about Tim thread."
Last edited:
BTW Hey Steve this thread could be turning into the "let's talk about Tim thread."
Sure David. Get me in trouble for going off topic. Un uh. Not me brother.
Steve
O
Orlando
Guest
Hook up the trailer (empty) and measure the height from the ball on the reciever to the ground, then drive the car onto the trailer until the height drops by another 1.5 inches. That is what I've done in the past with mine. My .02 Orlando
- Thread starter
- #65
Hey Craig, know how to tell if it's a small block or big block? You can hear a big block and SEE the drool dripping under it from the nasty bite it will take out of a small block
ANYway, will try that tomorrow. Mark coming over to help me put my sidepipes on (maybe) then I can try it. I've also flipped the hitch ball on top of the 2" drop bar to gain some height from the sag my truck has to it. I knew some of you racer dudes would have some good suggestions. Thanks.
ANYway, will try that tomorrow. Mark coming over to help me put my sidepipes on (maybe) then I can try it. I've also flipped the hitch ball on top of the 2" drop bar to gain some height from the sag my truck has to it. I knew some of you racer dudes would have some good suggestions. Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #67
So, Mark needed to have his car transported down to Fastlane today, so I took the trailer up to help him out. That was an adventure My trailer has now been 'Mark'd'
Question - We had an issue with Mark's bellhousing clearing the transition from the ramp in to the trailer. The reason we deducted, is because the trailer equipped with the 5,200 lb axles sits higher than other trailers. This makes the angle of the ramp steeper. Solutions?
My solutions include:
1) Screwing 2" x 10" boards to the main portion of the gate so when the car get's on top of them, the car is 2" higher
2) Install some type of blocking under the main gate to lessen the angle in to the trailer, then lengthen the transition ramp (the piece that folds over)
Any other ideas?
My trailer has now been 'Mark'd' Question - We had an issue with Mark's bellhousing clearing the transition from the ramp in to the trailer. The reason we deducted, is because the trailer equipped with the 5,200 lb axles sits higher than other trailers. This makes the angle of the ramp steeper. Solutions?
My solutions include:
1) Screwing 2" x 10" boards to the main portion of the gate so when the car get's on top of them, the car is 2" higher
2) Install some type of blocking under the main gate to lessen the angle in to the trailer, then lengthen the transition ramp (the piece that folds over)
Any other ideas?
I vote for Number two. I think it will give you more flexability.
If you find that your car has the same interference you'll probably want a more "elegant" permanent solution, but if it is just a problem on rare occasions when loading Mark's or another car a quick and easy cure is to simply raise the front of the trailer. When I tow my car it is on the same heavy duty trailer I use for backhoes and Bobcats, so it has a high deck. To lessen the ramp angle I put my floor jack under the truck hitch and raise the rear of the truck/front of the trailer a few inches.
Jeff
build some small ramps to pull back of truck up on and this will raise front of trailer - I would only do this if yours goes in trailer ok. get 2x10 and angle cut 1 end. 2 2 ft long and 2 1 1/2 feet long screw together. have seen this used many times at race track when they park you in the grass.
Dean Lampe
Member #023
- First Name
- Dean
- Last Name
- Lampe
Yeah, don't get to elaborate. Raising the front of the trailer is the easy answer. I have a 18 inch piece of a 6x6 that I put under the trailer jack and just crank it up a few inches. I just leave it hooked up and lift the whole thing a little. Problem solved.
this is also good to have incase you want to unhook and your out on the grass so the jack don't sink in the ground
- Thread starter
- #73
Yeah, we did the whole raise the front of the trailer/truck idea. I just didn't notice that it's sit's much higher than Steve's trailer. I will be trying to load mine in tomorrow.
Think I will try the ramps to back up on, that's easy enough. Any other type of hinges to use across the back?
Think I will try the ramps to back up on, that's easy enough. Any other type of hinges to use across the back?
Dean Lampe
Member #023
- First Name
- Dean
- Last Name
- Lampe
I had to modify the rear gate for the GT40. I assume you have an 18 inch ramp that folds down to extend your door right? I unscrewed that hinge and removed the factory piece. I took a piece of plywood cut to length and added a 4 ft piece to the door. I used the same hinge. I put 2x4 supports underneath. They where cut down from 1.5 inches to 0 at the end. The plywood isn't strong enough by its self. Then I wrapped the edge with 1/2 in aluminum angle like the factory edge after I covered both with indoor/ outdoor carpet and polished aluminum diamond plate runners.
- Thread starter
- #75
That's a thought, thanks. What happened yesterday is the hinge screws pulled out. There's a space between the transition ramp (18" extender) and the ground of about 3". Guess I never noticed on other trailers anything being under there.
Matthew 10:16
Member # 003
Hey Tim I'll bet Danny could give ya some good advice. He's had lots of experience with trailers. Sounds like your having a lot of fun with your new toy. 
How do ya like it? 
How do ya like it?
- Thread starter
- #77
Getting some good advice here too. Just really think one has to be here looking at the trailer to come up with something. I really don't want it to be too difficult to load and unload a car. I bought some new hinges this morning (heavier) new screws (they used sheet metal screws not wood screws) and Mark is coming over to help me brainstorm (anyone else is welcome too, not too cold out ya know 
). I think I have something in mind for the transition ramp using Dean and CK's ideas together. I believe if I put a 4x4 under the main gate, then extend the transition ramp another foot or so, make some cleats to support the transition ramp, I believe that will do it.
I like it a lot. It tows straight, and the v-nose seems to help with wind resistance. And, I can now haul a superformance in there tight as a glove thanks to one Blue Pig that rolled in to the nose of the trailer - inside
It's not noticeable, but will require a new overrider on the blue pig 
). I think I have something in mind for the transition ramp using Dean and CK's ideas together. I believe if I put a 4x4 under the main gate, then extend the transition ramp another foot or so, make some cleats to support the transition ramp, I believe that will do it.I like it a lot. It tows straight, and the v-nose seems to help with wind resistance. And, I can now haul a superformance in there tight as a glove thanks to one Blue Pig that rolled in to the nose of the trailer - inside
It's not noticeable, but will require a new overrider on the blue pig
Matthew 10:16
Member # 003
Nothin like a new toy to help with the winter blahs. Sounds like you're ready for the 2010 GCC cruisin season. Let the good times begin.
Let the good times begin.
- Thread starter
- #79
Success! Got the car on the trailer with no major mishaps or other issues. Loaded it in front of the house, and the closest part was the oil cooler opening. The bottom of the body there is really low to the ground. I had installed a hinge right in the middle, and I had about an inch clearance there Took a few pics below. On the transition ramp, Mark and I came up with using some braces under the track of the car. Also, Mark came up with the idea of using a 4x4 under the door to decrease the transition angle in to the trailer. I removed the flap the trailer place installed and replaced with one 8" wider, doubled up (2) 1/2" pieces of plywood for a 1" thickness, installed heavy duty hinges and attached them directly in to the metal framing for increased strength. I took it to the school parking lot which is relatively level and it worked just as well there. Thanks all for the ideas and Mark, thank you for the help yesterday.
Will be spending tomorrow getting my race tires secured, fuel tanks, tool box and tool chest secured in the trailer. Come on April and come on Putnam
Got the car on the trailer with no major mishaps or other issues. Loaded it in front of the house, and the closest part was the oil cooler opening. The bottom of the body there is really low to the ground. I had installed a hinge right in the middle, and I had about an inch clearance there Took a few pics below. On the transition ramp, Mark and I came up with using some braces under the track of the car. Also, Mark came up with the idea of using a 4x4 under the door to decrease the transition angle in to the trailer. I removed the flap the trailer place installed and replaced with one 8" wider, doubled up (2) 1/2" pieces of plywood for a 1" thickness, installed heavy duty hinges and attached them directly in to the metal framing for increased strength. I took it to the school parking lot which is relatively level and it worked just as well there. Thanks all for the ideas and Mark, thank you for the help yesterday.Will be spending tomorrow getting my race tires secured, fuel tanks, tool box and tool chest secured in the trailer. Come on April and come on Putnam
Good job.
A question I forgot to ask - how was it getting loaded by yourself? Did the hinge placement help? Any tricks to getting it loaded and unloaded by yourself?
M
A question I forgot to ask - how was it getting loaded by yourself? Did the hinge placement help? Any tricks to getting it loaded and unloaded by yourself?
M