They had announced earlier that the registration was suspended because they had to sort through the Event #8 entries before the date was changed, and issue partial refunds for the two-day entry discount.
(OK, they did not first announce that there was a change in the date of Event #8, which is sort of bad form)...
The announcement was two weeks ago, and no followup.
(Are we seeing a pattern here)...
It's getting close to the time when all of Heat 3 would normally be filled up. I poked around on the registration page, which is active, and every time I clicked to enter under the two-day entry, it added in the two individual days also ($60+$35+$35=$130).
I got an email from "Brian" saying "I saw you clicked to enter and then did not check out, is there anything I can do to help your shopping experience?". I had thought this was an email from the club PR guy who was sending out the unending sequence of member polls last winter. I responded with the $130 entry issue.
I went back and registered and then forwarded the double registration to "Brian" (possibly an automated email from the registration website), and our club person who seems to be in charge of the registration stuff.
Anyway, I did a bunch of searches for brake bias and left-foot-braking. I was wondering if they set up higher rear bias to suit this driving style.
I found just the opposite. The best explanation was that left-foot-braking in a front-wheel-drive car explained that the technique is a more controlled and subtle form of hand-brake sliding. The power of the engine is used to overpower the front brakes, while the rear non-driven wheels are significantly slowed by the rear brakes. This causes a very mild and very controlled slide of the rear wheels on a wider arc than normal turning. So this would indicate that left-foot-braking would work best with the rear brakes noticeably weaker than what would match the front brakes on a straight line brake lock-up test.
Alternately, I could try to calculate the engine force at the tire against the brake force at the tire, and come up with some kind of optimum front and rear brake force to induce the tiny bit of controllable tail slide.
I'm back to thinking the 1.5 inch piston front calipers are probably right.
(OK, they did not first announce that there was a change in the date of Event #8, which is sort of bad form)...
The announcement was two weeks ago, and no followup.
(Are we seeing a pattern here)...
It's getting close to the time when all of Heat 3 would normally be filled up. I poked around on the registration page, which is active, and every time I clicked to enter under the two-day entry, it added in the two individual days also ($60+$35+$35=$130).
I got an email from "Brian" saying "I saw you clicked to enter and then did not check out, is there anything I can do to help your shopping experience?". I had thought this was an email from the club PR guy who was sending out the unending sequence of member polls last winter. I responded with the $130 entry issue.
I went back and registered and then forwarded the double registration to "Brian" (possibly an automated email from the registration website), and our club person who seems to be in charge of the registration stuff.
Anyway, I did a bunch of searches for brake bias and left-foot-braking. I was wondering if they set up higher rear bias to suit this driving style.
I found just the opposite. The best explanation was that left-foot-braking in a front-wheel-drive car explained that the technique is a more controlled and subtle form of hand-brake sliding. The power of the engine is used to overpower the front brakes, while the rear non-driven wheels are significantly slowed by the rear brakes. This causes a very mild and very controlled slide of the rear wheels on a wider arc than normal turning. So this would indicate that left-foot-braking would work best with the rear brakes noticeably weaker than what would match the front brakes on a straight line brake lock-up test.
Alternately, I could try to calculate the engine force at the tire against the brake force at the tire, and come up with some kind of optimum front and rear brake force to induce the tiny bit of controllable tail slide.
I'm back to thinking the 1.5 inch piston front calipers are probably right.