Got beat by Mike and Gary.
I do not think that the pavement got warmer in the afternoon. The sun peaked through a little during first and second heat, and then it got darker gray and felt almost like the rain drops were trying to form at ground level. I wasted a lot of time and effort carrying all my stuff from where I was pitted, to the covered seating area, thereby insuring that it would not rain so that my time and effort was a waste. A decent trade for driving on dry pavement.
But, the pavement temperature was around 97 degrees, 10-15 degrees cooler than it would be with sun shine.
I drove my first run with both feet, meaning left foot braking. The tail was jumping out.
I drove my second run with one foot. It was just about as fast with less tail slide. I decided to continue one foot driving, and adjust the car exactly the opposite of everything I had been doing this year, basically back to the setup from two years ago: minimum rear tire pressure, stiffened rear shocks.
The big drawback seems to be that the car is lifting the inside front tire just enough to spin coming out of turns. The left foot braking was holding the car a little flatter, and/or providing enough resistance to the slipping side to keep the differential working to limit slip (with a gear diff, free wheel acts like an open diff).
I was giving the cones a real pummeling, and my run that would have edged past Gary by a fraction of a second would have had six or more seconds of penalties.
Good advice on the Nitto NT01s and the aging Kumho V710s. The NT01 is available in a 205-50-15.
I am giving a lot of thought to the idea of slotting the rear brake pads. My concern is that the reduced surface area will then bite harder (performance clutch has fewer pucks and applies more force to a smaller area). Or that the rear pad will be more likely to glaze instead of lock.
I also talked to Sean, who is kicking all our butts. He is using the Toyo Proxes R1R in a 195-50-15 size, which is narrower, and should get up to operating temperature on my light weight and underpowered car (and resolve tire clearance issues). He runs those as a street tire, drives to and from the events on those tires, and said they show no excessive wear or sign of heat cycling or getting hard. He said they may work better than the Hoosier A6 on the Family Arena lot, which was something I have been suspecting. And they are about $30+ less than the NT01s. The question will be if they will be available in the future. The 100 tread wear makes them illegal next year for classes moving to the 200+ tread wear tire requirement.
Instant G Liar's Poker: My first run on the G-Tech meter shows "1 1.11". The second run I turned the ignition off before looking. The third run showed "1 1.81". I am not sure if that is an error code or maybe the second row in the digital display is broken or incapable of displaying any digit other than 1. I decided it was not worth messing with and gave up.
I do not think that the pavement got warmer in the afternoon. The sun peaked through a little during first and second heat, and then it got darker gray and felt almost like the rain drops were trying to form at ground level. I wasted a lot of time and effort carrying all my stuff from where I was pitted, to the covered seating area, thereby insuring that it would not rain so that my time and effort was a waste. A decent trade for driving on dry pavement.
But, the pavement temperature was around 97 degrees, 10-15 degrees cooler than it would be with sun shine.
I drove my first run with both feet, meaning left foot braking. The tail was jumping out.
I drove my second run with one foot. It was just about as fast with less tail slide. I decided to continue one foot driving, and adjust the car exactly the opposite of everything I had been doing this year, basically back to the setup from two years ago: minimum rear tire pressure, stiffened rear shocks.
The big drawback seems to be that the car is lifting the inside front tire just enough to spin coming out of turns. The left foot braking was holding the car a little flatter, and/or providing enough resistance to the slipping side to keep the differential working to limit slip (with a gear diff, free wheel acts like an open diff).
I was giving the cones a real pummeling, and my run that would have edged past Gary by a fraction of a second would have had six or more seconds of penalties.
Good advice on the Nitto NT01s and the aging Kumho V710s. The NT01 is available in a 205-50-15.
I am giving a lot of thought to the idea of slotting the rear brake pads. My concern is that the reduced surface area will then bite harder (performance clutch has fewer pucks and applies more force to a smaller area). Or that the rear pad will be more likely to glaze instead of lock.
I also talked to Sean, who is kicking all our butts. He is using the Toyo Proxes R1R in a 195-50-15 size, which is narrower, and should get up to operating temperature on my light weight and underpowered car (and resolve tire clearance issues). He runs those as a street tire, drives to and from the events on those tires, and said they show no excessive wear or sign of heat cycling or getting hard. He said they may work better than the Hoosier A6 on the Family Arena lot, which was something I have been suspecting. And they are about $30+ less than the NT01s. The question will be if they will be available in the future. The 100 tread wear makes them illegal next year for classes moving to the 200+ tread wear tire requirement.
Instant G Liar's Poker: My first run on the G-Tech meter shows "1 1.11". The second run I turned the ignition off before looking. The third run showed "1 1.81". I am not sure if that is an error code or maybe the second row in the digital display is broken or incapable of displaying any digit other than 1. I decided it was not worth messing with and gave up.