I am hoping for some sage wisdom from the boards. I need to buy an a single vehicle enclosed trailer for my cobra. I have an underpowered Ford F150 with the turbocharged 6 cylinder, so a light trailer would be best. I would also like as short as possible. Any recommendations? Anyone know of one for sale outside of the usual places (I have been watching craigslist as well as all of the local trailer sales locations)?
Trailering
- Thread starter KyleO
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- #2
I pull a 8.5 x 16 trailer with my F150 Ecoboost, without issues.
You'll need a 8" wide trailer to get the car past the counterbalance cables for the door. Most trailers go at 20' long but 16 will work for a Cobra.
There are a number of trailer dealers along 61 in Herculaneum. Prices generally are around 5K each
Good luck on locating a used one - they're scarce
Paul
You'll need a 8" wide trailer to get the car past the counterbalance cables for the door. Most trailers go at 20' long but 16 will work for a Cobra.
There are a number of trailer dealers along 61 in Herculaneum. Prices generally are around 5K each
Good luck on locating a used one - they're scarce
Paul
I believe some of the guys also have soft sided enclosed trailers that are 16 feet. They are a lot lighter. Just a thought. Paul's right about used ones being hard to find.
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- #5
Kyle, I have a 2015 Ecoboost, the 3.5L and have been happier with it's towing capability than with my F250 Diesel 
Yep, you read that right...this V-6 actually tows as good if not better than the diesel with the additional feature of a much better ride, better fuel mileage and just more comfortable to drive.
Trailers - I bought the truck in September of 2015 and the break in was hooking up my 20' enclosed steel trailer and hauling the car to Tennessee. The truck towed this heavy trailer very well getting 9 - 10 mpg....+ a burnout leaving Pigeon Forge WITH the trailer leaving Mike and his V-8 GMC in the dust
But, that trip and the trip to Harrison had me looking for a lighter trailer. I found a Serpent Express in New York for sale and was just what I had been looking for:
This is an Aluminum trailer and is very light weighing about 1,800lbs. I was able to snag this one for $4,500. New, they are over $8,000. Having said that, Rick and Paul both on lighter low profile trailers that tow as good as this one that I believe they got from Viper Trailer World in Herculaneum - http://www.vipertrailerworld.com/
You have a capable truck, just need to match the trailer to it. I believe a 16' trailer is as short as you can go. Width - as Paul mentioned, a full 8' interior width is preferred, but, not necessary. I just saw a 16' aluminum trailer for sale in Wentzville for $4,500, so, they are out there.
My 20' is available if you need to borrow it and 'test' out the truck
Yep, you read that right...this V-6 actually tows as good if not better than the diesel with the additional feature of a much better ride, better fuel mileage and just more comfortable to drive.Trailers - I bought the truck in September of 2015 and the break in was hooking up my 20' enclosed steel trailer and hauling the car to Tennessee. The truck towed this heavy trailer very well getting 9 - 10 mpg....+ a burnout leaving Pigeon Forge WITH the trailer leaving Mike and his V-8 GMC in the dust
But, that trip and the trip to Harrison had me looking for a lighter trailer. I found a Serpent Express in New York for sale and was just what I had been looking for:
This is an Aluminum trailer and is very light weighing about 1,800lbs. I was able to snag this one for $4,500. New, they are over $8,000. Having said that, Rick and Paul both on lighter low profile trailers that tow as good as this one that I believe they got from Viper Trailer World in Herculaneum - http://www.vipertrailerworld.com/
You have a capable truck, just need to match the trailer to it. I believe a 16' trailer is as short as you can go. Width - as Paul mentioned, a full 8' interior width is preferred, but, not necessary. I just saw a 16' aluminum trailer for sale in Wentzville for $4,500, so, they are out there.
My 20' is available if you need to borrow it and 'test' out the truck
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- #6
I am pulling a 8-1/2 x 16, made by Arising Industries. Viper Trailer is a distributor for them and shows a price on-lline of $4750. Options will probably push that over 5k but it is in line with what I paid. Rick opted for a lower height and I wish I had also. Don't need the full height trailer and it only contributes to drag/lower mph.
You need the 8-1/2' width. On a 7' wide, the cables for the door counterbalance won't clear the rear fender hips of a 427 car. (Will, but just barely, for a 289 car)
I sometimes regret buying the 16' length, I can't haul a full size car - but more than long enough for a cobra or coupe - just not a bigger Mustang. I thought the shorter length would help weight/mph but little to no effect. It is the frontal area (drag) that is the MPH killer
You need the 8-1/2' width. On a 7' wide, the cables for the door counterbalance won't clear the rear fender hips of a 427 car. (Will, but just barely, for a 289 car)
I sometimes regret buying the 16' length, I can't haul a full size car - but more than long enough for a cobra or coupe - just not a bigger Mustang. I thought the shorter length would help weight/mph but little to no effect. It is the frontal area (drag) that is the MPH killer
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- #7
Paul, like your floor and painted walls...I just bought one Friday (from Dennis @ Viper Trailers) gonna pick it up Wednesday 2/22/17...yep $4750 cash....is that a tile floor or painted? Forgot about a "spare tire"...is that an extra? Whats hanging on wall below your spare? Looks cool for sure...nice job...you do it or have it done?....not being a "trailer guy" I thought it was a solid buy....and even more pleased to learn that you have the same rig....today I got Barb's car readied for the trailer; 6" drop receiver for hitch (Dennis said needs to be 18" from top ball to ground) I accomplished this / 2 5/16 ball / and just basic stuff; locks for trailer doors/Coupler Lock for Trailer Tongue /Tie Down Straps for car/....
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- #8
Ian
Get out the paint brushes
Paul
Get out the paint brushes
- Floor is painted - layed it out in 12" squares then hand painted.
- Spare tire was extra
- The yellow object below the spare is a trailer jack/ramp. This is a link to the item on Summit Racing: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/eqt-77/overview/
Paul
Here is what Tim and I tow. It most likely is the easiest towing trailer you will find, just not the cheapest you will find. 
Found mine used, got a good deal I think <$3600.
http://www.serpentexpress.com
Found mine used, got a good deal I think <$3600.http://www.serpentexpress.com
I checked out Paul and Rick's Arising trailers at the Supercruise and really like them but I believe they are both steel framed. I think the Arising trailer will be a good fit if I can't find an aluminum one. I'm going to stick with 16 feet but the 8 1/2 foot width sounds like a good idea and definitely going low profile with V nose.
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- #11
Great.... thanks for the 411 on floor....yes will order that trailer jack thingy....hope I never need it....I will order a spare also....finally great cruise today....check out FB page.....had my buddy take some photos and post them....of today...enjoy!
Headed to Viper Trailers today to start scouting out trailer options for Deadwood. I've modified my search list to include a used aluminum Serpent hauler and the 8 1/2 x 16 Arising trailer (or equivalent manufacturer). Any input on trailer brake systems? I have a 2016 F-150 with trailer tow package to pull it with. Any "must have" options to consider?
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- #13
Kent
Things I added:
Assuming it will come with
Things I added:
- Radial Tires - at the time I bought it, it came standard with bias ply
- Rear Stabilizer jacks - if you want to load/unload while disconnected from tow vehicle
- Spare tire
Assuming it will come with
- Roof or wall vents
- 4 wheel electric brakes
- Reinforced drive on ramp
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Paul,
I'm still trying to cut size and weight. I can cut the height to 5'6" like Rick's at no additional cost if I order it instead of buying off the lot. And I can go to 14 feet instead of 16. Those two things will get me to 2,500#. They will also position the D rings and underlying support anywhere I need them as they build it. You are correct in your assumptions regarding roof vent, radial tires, and electric brakes, all included. Any comments about 14 feet? And how about the standard tongue length? Any reason to get the extended tongue?
Kent
I'm still trying to cut size and weight. I can cut the height to 5'6" like Rick's at no additional cost if I order it instead of buying off the lot. And I can go to 14 feet instead of 16. Those two things will get me to 2,500#. They will also position the D rings and underlying support anywhere I need them as they build it. You are correct in your assumptions regarding roof vent, radial tires, and electric brakes, all included. Any comments about 14 feet? And how about the standard tongue length? Any reason to get the extended tongue?
Kent
- Staff
- #15
For my $.02...the extended tongue is worth it. I think mine was an extra $150?
- Staff
- #16
Moved several trailer replies on the Deadwood thread here. Kent, a 14' would be tight, especially if you wanted any room to tie the car down. I believe, 16' is the shortest you should go. We've discovered that the weight isn't necessarily the towing killer as much as it is the front surface area of the trailer. I believe if you get a low profile trailer or one with the slanted front nose you would see more benefit from that than the weight reduction. As I've told you, my F150 Ecoboost tows just as well as my Diesel did. Most all trailers now come with electric brakes. See this article explaining the two different types of trailer brakes -http://www.redtrailers.com/ShowArticle.asp?id=2
I assume your truck came with the in-dash brake controller? If you've never towed before, see this video on how to adjust your brake controller:
(Video link broken and removed)
The Rear Stabilizer jacks I think are a must. You will need to throw in your trailer the following:
- Wheel Chocks
- Spare tire
- Trailer ramp jack...in case you have a flat tire, you just pull the trailer up on this jack and it will lift the trailer and the flat tire off the ground for changing - Ramp Jack
- Lug nut wrench....don't rely on that battery powered impact wrench to take your lug nuts off
- Tie downs - Get the in floor D-ring tie downs.
- Straps - Get a good quality tie down, not those from Harbor Freight.
- Tongue Lock - or, coupler lock as they call them
What I consider a must have would be to equip the trailer with a dove tail at the rear. What this does is drop the last 2' or so of the trailer gradually to the back. This option will allow you to load your car without carrying Race Ramps. Interior lighting is very helpful as well. I like the textured grip type paint on the floor of mine. Prevents slippage of the tires when wet and prevents you from slipping and falling.
That's about it.
I assume your truck came with the in-dash brake controller? If you've never towed before, see this video on how to adjust your brake controller:
(Video link broken and removed)
The Rear Stabilizer jacks I think are a must. You will need to throw in your trailer the following:
- Wheel Chocks
- Spare tire
- Trailer ramp jack...in case you have a flat tire, you just pull the trailer up on this jack and it will lift the trailer and the flat tire off the ground for changing - Ramp Jack
- Lug nut wrench....don't rely on that battery powered impact wrench to take your lug nuts off
- Tie downs - Get the in floor D-ring tie downs.
- Straps - Get a good quality tie down, not those from Harbor Freight.
- Tongue Lock - or, coupler lock as they call them
What I consider a must have would be to equip the trailer with a dove tail at the rear. What this does is drop the last 2' or so of the trailer gradually to the back. This option will allow you to load your car without carrying Race Ramps. Interior lighting is very helpful as well. I like the textured grip type paint on the floor of mine. Prevents slippage of the tires when wet and prevents you from slipping and falling.
That's about it.
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- Staff
- #17
3/14 Monthly Meeting: Will attend: QUESTION ON CAR TIE DOWN IN TRAILER:
Hopefully will firm up the upcoming San Marcos trip. As mentioned (my first Rodeo on Trailing etc.) would plan to "follow" someone - caravan as it was mentioned....I believe that CUBA, MO was mentioned as to the hookup place....
I would like to know how "others" secure and tie down their car, once loaded into the trailer; I have had a in floor track installed at front of trailer to accept my tie down straps, and at the rear will use the installed D-rings, floor mounted.
QUESTION: What do most prefer; straight tie down (hook to car and straight forward to floor hook) or do you "criss-cross" (X) the tie down straps. If so would you do BOTH front and rear (criss-cross)....or your thoughts? Obviously the straps will be tightened to secure car tightly....? Just wondering....thinking of a "test" load tomorrow in afternoon. Weather to be 74?
Jump in and get me some direction...many thanks!
Hopefully will firm up the upcoming San Marcos trip. As mentioned (my first Rodeo on Trailing etc.) would plan to "follow" someone - caravan as it was mentioned....I believe that CUBA, MO was mentioned as to the hookup place....
I would like to know how "others" secure and tie down their car, once loaded into the trailer; I have had a in floor track installed at front of trailer to accept my tie down straps, and at the rear will use the installed D-rings, floor mounted.
QUESTION: What do most prefer; straight tie down (hook to car and straight forward to floor hook) or do you "criss-cross" (X) the tie down straps. If so would you do BOTH front and rear (criss-cross)....or your thoughts? Obviously the straps will be tightened to secure car tightly....? Just wondering....thinking of a "test" load tomorrow in afternoon. Weather to be 74?
Jump in and get me some direction...many thanks!
- Staff
- #18
Ian, moved your post here. Yes, we will cover the San Marcos plans at the meeting as well as here on the forum.
Regarding your trailer tie downs and such, I could come over after work tomorrow and go through everything if you want. Just need an address and time. I typically don't cross my straps. The idea is to keep your car from "walking" side to side, however, I've never had an issue with this happening. Read here for more info - https://www.hagerty.com/assets/PDF/TraileringPamphlet.pdf
Let me know and I can come over to help
Regarding your trailer tie downs and such, I could come over after work tomorrow and go through everything if you want. Just need an address and time. I typically don't cross my straps. The idea is to keep your car from "walking" side to side, however, I've never had an issue with this happening. Read here for more info - https://www.hagerty.com/assets/PDF/TraileringPamphlet.pdf
Let me know and I can come over to help
- Staff
- #19
Hey Tim: I called you cell# I think?....went to voice mail...YES tomorrow I plan to do a "test load/unload" with the new trailer. I think I should be fine with it.....you mention you are working...I am flexible on time....what ever may be best for you is my thinking. Thanks for the offer to check me and process out...call me back at 314-406-1961 if you get the chance.........
Address: 8 Regatta Bay Court / Lake Saint Louis.....basically-Lake Saint Louis Blvd TO Foxtrail....(coming from 70 it's a RIGHT - from 40 it will be a LEFT...ON TO FOXTRAIL.....straight back 8 streets on the LEFT...Regatta Bay, LEFT to 4th house on RIGHT (name on mail box) and will see the trailer....
Address: 8 Regatta Bay Court / Lake Saint Louis.....basically-Lake Saint Louis Blvd TO Foxtrail....(coming from 70 it's a RIGHT - from 40 it will be a LEFT...ON TO FOXTRAIL.....straight back 8 streets on the LEFT...Regatta Bay, LEFT to 4th house on RIGHT (name on mail box) and will see the trailer....
- Staff
- #20
The pamphlet information on "trailer towing" was great that you provided....read it twice...good stuff............