Battery / alternator problem

MPTech

MPTech

Member # 032
GCC Member
Location
St. Louis (south county)
First Name
Mark
Last Name
Patterson
Having start / battery / alternator issues, could really use some advice.
I have a new alternator that came with my new front dress kit.
I was having starting issues 1 1/2 months ago and thought it was my battery, so already replaced that.
This has happened a couple times now. My car dies coming to a stop (still dialing in the Sniper EFI) and when I go to start it, the battery doesn't have enough power to turn it over. Had it on my trickle charger over-night last night, started right up the first time, drove it a couple miles, car dies turning into my driveway, hit the key and it doesn't have enough power to turn it over even once. My dash gauge read 14 Amps and the Sniper mini-screen showed 12.5 (??).
I'm skeptical taking it to AutoZone / O'Reilly's for testing, but don't know what else to try.
 
A simple grounding wire from the starter to the frame fixed my similar problem. I’m not saying your problem is the same but it’s an easy and quick thing to try. I messed around for a year; new starter, new alternator, etc before grounding the starter because I thought it was sufficiently grounded through the bolts.
 
I agree, check to be sure it's grounded well, you may want to run a ground wire to the alternator frame as well.
 
Make sure your connection at the started is clean and tight, your wire from starter to battery is in good condition. I've Paul recommend brass washers on the starter connection. Was your starter working right with old engine, your new engine is harder to turn over with more compression, that could be a problem. How about timing, something to look at. Hope this helps.
Hope you get this fixed, post back what fixed it, mine kind of does the same thing so maybe I can get mine fixed.
 
Yeah grounding first, test alternator that it's charging enough, should read around 13.8 to 14.2 volts when the engine is running. Do you have underdrive pulleys? I could help this weekend if needed.
 
Thanks guys, I'm going to take a look at this in the next couple days and see if I can figure anything out.
Start with looking at my Starter and Alternator grounds and see if I can get the alternator tested.
Yes, this is my OEM Starter that I had on the old engine.
No, I do not have underdrive pulleys.
 
The grounds are the place to start but also where is your starter located in relation to the headers? I had that problem and it wound up being the started was getting heat soaked. I cured it by putting a high temperature reflective shiels between the starter and header. Also maybe have the starter tested as it could be getting worn to where when the engine is hot it doesn't have the power to turn it over.

Ron
 
Ron77 said:
The grounds are the place to start but also where is your starter located in relation to the headers? I had that problem and it wound up being the started was getting heat soaked. I cured it by putting a high temperature reflective shiels between the starter and header. Also maybe have the starter tested as it could be getting worn to where when the engine is hot it doesn't have the power to turn it over.

Ron
Click to expand...
I agree that it could be heat related. I had this issue on my 69 Mustang and it was a combination of an old cable to the starter from the solenoid and the cable was too close to the exhaust manifold. I replaced and re-routed the new cable, never had an issue since.
 
If you think it's a starter, this is what I used . A good starter for the $$, never had an issue. Have it on this car and on the other one too.
www.dbelectrical.com

Ford Bronco 4.9L 5.0L 5.8L Starter 1992-1996

Shop for the Ford Bronco 4.9L 5.0L 5.8L Starter 92 93 94 95 96 at DB Electrical. The best selection, low prices, fast shipping, and great customer service.
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Thanks Rich
I'm going to start with cleaning the battery posts/clamps, ground wires and starter / alternator cables.
Not sure how to test afterwards. Readings on the Amp gauge and Sniper monitor looked normal to me, but I'm going to check them again.

I HATE electrical issues.
 
Work through one at a time and don't fix all at the same time. Otherwise, you won't know when you fixed the issue or what caused it. Be patient, you'll get it
 
I have an extra mini starter so when you get to the point of testing your starter, you are welcome to it.
 
Good News!! I'm not ready to call it a complete success yet, need a few more test-drives, but it is a significant victory today!
Last night I removed both cables from the battery and cleaned the Posts and Clamps well with one of those round wire Battery brushes, then applied some "Battery Terminal Protection" (dielectric gel). I then removed the Ground cable from the starter and the frame (yes, it was grounded on the trans support as we discussed), cleaned both ends with sandpaper and cleaned the starter and frame contact with a dremel sanding drum and wire brush (all were shiney). I also applied dielectric gel to both cable ends and the surface contacts. By this time, it was dark so I post-poned the test-drive to today.
This moring, I started the car and the Speedhut gauge read 14+ amps and the Sniper hand-held unit read 12.6 (does this difference sound right? I expected them to read the same(?). Took it for a 5 mile cruise and stopped at the gas station for a fill up (Rich, I still had 1/4 tank. Won't make that mistake again. Haha). Car started up first crank at the gas station. Sounded strong, no strain. Got home and pulled in the garage, turned it off, let it set for a couple minutes and re-started again. Good! I turned it off and re-started it about 5 more times and absolutely no issue!!
That was a definite improvement over the last few drives.
 
The handheld should be reporting the same voltage as the system. It would report around 14 with the engine running. 12.6 would be a typical reading with the engine off.
 
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