Anyone need a TKO600 Transmission?

Kerry I need one. Do you know this person? I wonder why he's selling so cheep.
 
Well I have been in contact with the seller. He does not have the receipt from when he bought it. I think that would be an issue when I go to title the car. Also he's not sure what 5th gear he has. Might be a good deal for an existing car in need of a new transmission.
 
Thanks Kerry. I was just doing some looking on line and notarized bill of sale looks like it will work.
 
So he says it has about 5,000 miles on it and raced a few times but mostly street driven. Unsure of 5th gear but have him looking for the tag so I can figure it out. I will be able to tell date made and if it is for sure a tko 600. It's still in the car and the reason he is selling is he wants to go auto. If it's the .64 5th I'm pretty interested. What are your all thoughts? One thing that concerns me is if it was indexed properly and if not what are the chances of damage in 5,000 miles.
 
Tony_G said:
So he says it has about 5,000 miles on it and raced a few times but mostly street driven. Unsure of 5th gear but have him looking for the tag so I can figure it out. I will be able to tell date made and if it is for sure a tko 600. It's still in the car and the reason he is selling is he wants to go auto. If it's the .64 5th I'm pretty interested. What are your all thoughts? One thing that concerns me is if it was indexed properly and if not what are the chances of damage in 5,000 miles.
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Indexing...or better described as dialing in the bell-housing to insure it was centered has been an issue more with aftermarket steel scatter shields which had a reputation for needing it due to the way in which steel bell-housings were hydra formed. Lakewood was particularly bad for needing this extra check.

However the seller stated that his bell housing was one made by McLeod . I have seen McLeod stickers on some steel bell-housings stating that they were already indexed. You should still check it anyway. Acceptable tolerance should be .005 run-out or less.

Did the owner indicate if he checked the bell-housing during initial installation?

I doubt it could be out enough to do any damage in 5K street miles as it would first show signs of poor shift engagement and excessive vibration.
If he has not had any driveability issues with it...I suspect it is pretty close.
 
Well Kerry I went ahead and bought it. I think its older than what he lead on. The Date code on the bell housing is 2005 and the transmission is 2006. But if it works is fine with me. The Bell housing does look to be a McLeod just by the gold color. The Flywheel is a 157 tooth Fidanza with replacement flywheel insert. Neutral Balanced or has weights for 28 or 50 oz. I hope all this will be usable. Planning on a 427W. Looks like I should replace the insert. Are these type of flywheel any good? Thinking I'll get a new clutch and throw out bearing. The transmission goes into each gear and spins by hand. He already had it out of the car before I could go get it. Was hoping he could have taken me for a ride. Hope I did ok on this deal. IMG_0853.jpgIMG_0854.jpgIMG_0855.jpg
 
Tony_G said:
Well Kerry I went ahead and bought it. I think its older than what he lead on. The Date code on the bell housing is 2005 and the transmission is 2006. But if it works is fine with me. The Bell housing does look to be a McLeod just by the gold color. The Flywheel is a 157 tooth Fidanza with replacement flywheel insert. Neutral Balanced or has weights for 28 or 50 oz. I hope all this will be usable. Planning on a 427W. Looks like I should replace the insert. Are these type of flywheel any good? Thinking I'll get a new clutch and throw out bearing. The transmission goes into each gear and spins by hand. He already had it out of the car before I could go get it. Was hoping he could have taken me for a ride. Hope I did ok on this deal.View attachment 4560View attachment 4561View attachment 4562
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Tony...I just prepared a lengthy response...and lost it while editing.

Short version.:
Flywheels are good. Commonly used in the V8 and Supercharged V6 Fiero community.
You need a new $60 insert.
New disc and throw-out bearing for sure.
Pull the inspection covers on top and look for damage.
Pull the plug...Drain the oil and look for any pieces of teeth.You will see metal flakes in the oil. This is to be expected with metal to metal synchronizers. But they should be fine flakes...like metal-flake paint....no pieces.
Flush as best you can with cheap thin viscosity oil or Kerosene.
Blow out gears and case with compressed air with extended nozzle
Let drain overnight.
Fill with synthetic gear lube.

Sorry...but I'm too pissed to continue.
 
Thanks for all the help. I appreciate the knowledge. Don't get all worked up and stressed. It's not worth your health. I'll drain it, inspect, then if all is good flush and fill. I'll let you know what I find. I called Fidonza today to get a part number for the insert. I also asked her if this would work on a 351w based motor and she told me no it was for a 86-95 5.0 Mustang. She said I would need the 164 tooth flywheel. But when I look it up on Summit it showed it will fit a 95 SVT Cobra R with a 351w. I will have to do some more checking on this. Not sure what the differences. Also I recall on FFCars where if you have a Lakewood bellhousing it needs to be notched. This one is similar in design so that my need to be done also. Something I can look into and do if needed when closer to putting it together.

Thanks again!
 
Tony...

Refresh my aging memory.
Do you already have a 351W built....or are you going with a crate motor....or plan to build from a core?

Reason I ask is that I have a solid running 351W at my farm that is still in one of my vehicles that would make a great core for building.

I also have a .030 over bare block with crank, rods, pistons and heads from an old Bronco project.

Just wasn't sure what direction you were going.
 
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My plan is to go with a create motor. Possibly a Ford Performance 427w with the Z heads or have a builder build one similar. Hopefully in a few more months I'll be able to start making phone calls and make a decision.
 
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